If there’s a ship that can be simultaneously stately and unpretentious, it’s Hurtigruten's 822-passenger MS Trollfjord. The public spaces don’t shout out for attention (in fact, there’s no over-the-top anything), but the service is solid and staterooms a comfortable base for the main attraction: the scenery. When passengers aren’t off exploring in port — on a dogsledding run in Kirkenes, for example — then they’re gazing out the window in the lounges or taking a dip in the hot tub.